FO (Fashion)
A Casual Round-Up
T-Shirts
The sleeves should finish mid bicep, whilst the body should be slim through the torso and end a couple of inches below the waist.
They work perfectly by themselves with a pair of jeans and boots or can be dressed up with an unstructured blazer and chinos. I’d recommend buying some basic versions that can be used as under shirts, in order to preserve your dress shirts, and others to be worn without.
Staple tees in white, grey and navy offer the most versatility. Black is an option, but it does limit what you can pair it with and only really looks good in the evening.
A brief word on Henley tops: as long as they fit you well in the body and aren’t too tight in the arms, just treat them exactly the same as you would your t-shirt collection. Add a touch of detailing to any simple outfit by playing around with how many buttons you do up on them.
They work perfectly by themselves with a pair of jeans and boots or can be dressed up with an unstructured blazer and chinos. I’d recommend buying some basic versions that can be used as under shirts, in order to preserve your dress shirts, and others to be worn without.
Staple tees in white, grey and navy offer the most versatility. Black is an option, but it does limit what you can pair it with and only really looks good in the evening.
A brief word on Henley tops: as long as they fit you well in the body and aren’t too tight in the arms, just treat them exactly the same as you would your t-shirt collection. Add a touch of detailing to any simple outfit by playing around with how many buttons you do up on them.
Jeans
As always, fit is king. For beginners, slim – not skinny – is what you should aiming for, and don’t be afraid to take them to a tailor to get them just right.
Always own a pair in a raw indigo colour and then possibly venture into grey and black washes, if denim really is your thing. Keep the design simple – no man made distressing and definitely no logos or words on the back pockets (or anywhere else for that matter).
If your budget will stretch, go for selvedge as the quality is much better and they will last so much longer. Be prepared to wear them in though.
Always own a pair in a raw indigo colour and then possibly venture into grey and black washes, if denim really is your thing. Keep the design simple – no man made distressing and definitely no logos or words on the back pockets (or anywhere else for that matter).
If your budget will stretch, go for selvedge as the quality is much better and they will last so much longer. Be prepared to wear them in though.
Chinos & Trousers
Treat them exactly the same way you would a pair of jeans. Aim for pairs that are a little less that can be worn formally and casually. Opt for neutral colours like navy, grey and shades of brown and you really can’t lose.
They look their best when worn with a form of tailoring, such as a suit jacket or waistcoat.
When it comes to fabric, remember to adjust to the season – tweed, heavyweight cottons or corduroy in the winter and linen, lightweight cottons or seersucker for the summer.
They look their best when worn with a form of tailoring, such as a suit jacket or waistcoat.
When it comes to fabric, remember to adjust to the season – tweed, heavyweight cottons or corduroy in the winter and linen, lightweight cottons or seersucker for the summer.
Knitwear
Whether jumpers or cardigans, make sure they aren’t so tight that you can’t layer a piece underneath but are cut slim through the sides.
Merino wool is the most common material used, but look into lambswool and cashmere if you’re interested in beefier or more luxurious fabrics.
V-neck jumpers communicate a more formal tone, whilst crew necks look great over a shirt or by themselves under a casual jacket. Thin gauge cardigans work well when layered under a formal jacket whilst thicker versions (such as shawl necks or belted versions) can be used as an outer layer on their own due to the thickness of the wool.
Roll necks are back ‘in’ these days, but as long as you nail the fit (slim, not too tight round the neck) they can be worn in much the same way as a cardigan.
Merino wool is the most common material used, but look into lambswool and cashmere if you’re interested in beefier or more luxurious fabrics.
V-neck jumpers communicate a more formal tone, whilst crew necks look great over a shirt or by themselves under a casual jacket. Thin gauge cardigans work well when layered under a formal jacket whilst thicker versions (such as shawl necks or belted versions) can be used as an outer layer on their own due to the thickness of the wool.
Roll necks are back ‘in’ these days, but as long as you nail the fit (slim, not too tight round the neck) they can be worn in much the same way as a cardigan.
Casual Shirts
Make sure they fit you in the neck and sleeves. You should be able to fit two fingers comfortably between your neck and collar and when you turn your head the collar should stay still.
The cuff should end where your thumb and wrist meet. Everything else depends on the cut of the shirt and can be altered by a tailor (or yourself) to find your perfect fit through the sides.
See my Ultimate Streamlined Shirt Collection article for a guide on what types of shirts you could look to invest
The cuff should end where your thumb and wrist meet. Everything else depends on the cut of the shirt and can be altered by a tailor (or yourself) to find your perfect fit through the sides.
See my Ultimate Streamlined Shirt Collection article for a guide on what types of shirts you could look to invest
Casual Jackets
Whether you’re a leather, denim or a straight up Harrington man, you should follow one simple rule when buying a casual jacket: try on the size below what you normally go for.
It seems to be the case that most guys go a size too big for layering, when there really is enough room in the size down as well. You want it to be snug on your shoulders and end around (or a couple of inches below) your waist.
Try dressing your casual jacket up with suit trousers or shirt and tie combinations to create interesting juxtapositions and a variety of perfectly balanced smart-casual ensembles.
It seems to be the case that most guys go a size too big for layering, when there really is enough room in the size down as well. You want it to be snug on your shoulders and end around (or a couple of inches below) your waist.
Try dressing your casual jacket up with suit trousers or shirt and tie combinations to create interesting juxtapositions and a variety of perfectly balanced smart-casual ensembles.
Casual Shoes
One white and one black pair of trainers with minimal detailing is all you need, with the neutral colour ways enabling you to pair them with more formal pieces, if required.
Look at getting a pair of neutral boat shoes for the summer and a pair of leather loafers for the winter – your clothing isn’t the only thing that needs to adapt to each season.
A pair of brown suede deserts boots will see you through any season. Also consider investing in a great pair of leather boots for our typically British autumn/winter weather – black, brown or burgundy are all great options.
Try experimenting with the types of looks you integrate your casual footwear into. As long as the design remains simple, classic and versatile there’s no reason why they can’t be utilised in more formal outfits.
Look at getting a pair of neutral boat shoes for the summer and a pair of leather loafers for the winter – your clothing isn’t the only thing that needs to adapt to each season.
A pair of brown suede deserts boots will see you through any season. Also consider investing in a great pair of leather boots for our typically British autumn/winter weather – black, brown or burgundy are all great options.
Try experimenting with the types of looks you integrate your casual footwear into. As long as the design remains simple, classic and versatile there’s no reason why they can’t be utilised in more formal outfits.
A Formal Round-Up
Suits
When it comes to the jacket, make sure that it hugs your shoulders, is slim in the body and that it covers your bottom.
The trousers should be slim, not skinny, and have a break that suits your personal taste – I tend to go for a slight break so that I can show a bit of sock when walking or sitting down.
Notch lapels are more business appropriate whilst a peak lapel communicates elegance and power. Number of buttons and vents is your prerogative.
For your first suit, go for something in a solid navy or grey and then expand from there – burgundy, olive, khaki and French blue are all viable options. Black is NEVER suitable for business or the day time (if you want something similar, go for charcoal grey instead), but can look very modern and stylish when worn in the evening.
As long as the suit fits you properly, you can dress it up or down to your tastes. Think dress shirts, grenadine ties and Derby shoes or neutral t-shirts, trainers and chambray shirts.
The trousers should be slim, not skinny, and have a break that suits your personal taste – I tend to go for a slight break so that I can show a bit of sock when walking or sitting down.
Notch lapels are more business appropriate whilst a peak lapel communicates elegance and power. Number of buttons and vents is your prerogative.
For your first suit, go for something in a solid navy or grey and then expand from there – burgundy, olive, khaki and French blue are all viable options. Black is NEVER suitable for business or the day time (if you want something similar, go for charcoal grey instead), but can look very modern and stylish when worn in the evening.
As long as the suit fits you properly, you can dress it up or down to your tastes. Think dress shirts, grenadine ties and Derby shoes or neutral t-shirts, trainers and chambray shirts.
Blazers/Sport Coats
Same fit as a suit jacket but cut a little shorter in length. They can still be solid in colour but I tend to think they look better when they have a pattern or interesting colour involved such as brown windowpane check, navy plaid or pastel shades.
Look for jackets that have softer shoulders and minimal lining for a comfortable fit that feels more like wearing a shirt than a jacket. Try pairing them with everything from a classic jeans and t-shirt combination to a pair of corduroy trousers and a rugby top.
And don’t forget to add a flourish with a pocket square.
Look for jackets that have softer shoulders and minimal lining for a comfortable fit that feels more like wearing a shirt than a jacket. Try pairing them with everything from a classic jeans and t-shirt combination to a pair of corduroy trousers and a rugby top.
And don’t forget to add a flourish with a pocket square.
Waistcoat
I tend to size down on these as they seem to be cut a little big in most stores.
If you want to wear for business then look for 100 per cent wool versions and opt for neutral, timeless colours. You can also pick them up in materials like tweed and corduroy, which are slightly more casual and can be paired with other rugged items like jeans, flannel shirts and tees.
If you want to wear for business then look for 100 per cent wool versions and opt for neutral, timeless colours. You can also pick them up in materials like tweed and corduroy, which are slightly more casual and can be paired with other rugged items like jeans, flannel shirts and tees.
Tuxedo
Take this seriously as it’s the one time that you need to look your very best. There’s also a lot of really great tuxedos available at reasonable prices right now and, in the long run, will save you money over renting.
Make sure the fit is razor sharp and go for one in a black wool or cotton with a grosgrain lapel and matching bow tie.
For a classic look, pair it with a white French cuff dress shirt. If you are looking to get more use out of your tux jacket, why not try combining it with a pair of black jeans and a white t-shirt?
Make sure the fit is razor sharp and go for one in a black wool or cotton with a grosgrain lapel and matching bow tie.
For a classic look, pair it with a white French cuff dress shirt. If you are looking to get more use out of your tux jacket, why not try combining it with a pair of black jeans and a white t-shirt?
Coats
If the coat is going to be worn over a suit jacket regularly you’ll want to make sure there is a bit of extra room in the shoulders. Otherwise, aim for a snug fit and length that ends a couple of inches above your knees.
What type of coat you get is up to you. My favourite has always been a navy pea coat as it’s (you guessed it) versatile, simple and classic – I can wear it with pretty much everything in my
What type of coat you get is up to you. My favourite has always been a navy pea coat as it’s (you guessed it) versatile, simple and classic – I can wear it with pretty much everything in my
Formal Shoes
You should be looking to own: a pair of black cap toe shoes, a pair of brown Oxfords, some burgundy penny loafers, some tan brogues and possibly some suede variations of the above for good measure.
As always, it’s important to keep them clean and well maintained. Nothing ruins a great look, especially a suit, more than a pair of grubby, unmaintained shoes. Or Crocs.
As always, it’s important to keep them clean and well maintained. Nothing ruins a great look, especially a suit, more than a pair of grubby, unmaintained shoes. Or Crocs.